flooring refinishing

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flooring refinishing Frequently Asked Questions

If the floors are in good shape and flat (use a 6 ft staightedge to check) you can probably use a square vibrating type sander to remove old finish. These are much easier to use than drum-type, and won't gouge the floor, but won't flatten any dips, cupped boards, or height differences between boards. Stains may be a problem, though--if the stains have penetrated the wood to any depth, you'll have to use a drum sander with coarse grit to sand out the stain and flatten the floor around--even then, you may not get it all.

You may be able to hire out the sanding, and do the re-finishing yourself to save a little money. But I think sanding is actually easier for a careful beginner to do right that finishing.

BTW, I'd test any chemical procedure in an unobtrusive place to see if it will work--closet or corner. Lacquer thinner is both toxic and highly flammable, and doing a whole floor will cause a lot of fumes to build up. You'll need to wear rubber gloves (that the thinner won't melt), a respirator that filters organic vapors (not just a dust mask), and open all windows for good air circulation. Extinguish pilot lights and take frequent breaks. Personally, I'd much rather sand.

I need some advice on refinishing my old hardwood floors.?

My husband and I bought an old house built in 1950 . We have recently discovered that there is hardwood flooring under the carpet. We have since ripped it up and have decided to refinish the floor ourselves. We have called the local hardware store and have found they have a sander we can rent. Can anyone give me some advice on the proper method of getting these floors to look great again?

First sand the floors, taking off any old varnish and stain. The sander you are renting should be special for this purpose, and it should come off smooth and fairly easy. I work at and rented my sander from Home Depot. The main, big sander for most of the work I did worked very well. For the edges and corners, the sander they gave me was a pain, going in a circular motion and difficult to control. For that, I wished I used a lighter grit sand paper. Ask the rental people which sand paper to use as far as grit is concerned. The next question is, what do you want the floor to look like once it is sanded down? Do you want to stain it? You don't have to. You definately need to put on a polyurthane, which comes in a satin, semigloss, or gloss. Even though this is clear, it will darken the floor a bit, which can't be helped. Read the back of the can for how to best apply it, what to use, etc. You will probably need to sand between coats of the poly, and using a sanding block that can screw into a broom handle is nice for doing this (it's only light sanding between coats, so you wouldn't use the machine for this part). Putting on the poly, you will probably use a lambs wool pad. Don't shake any stain you may use, or the poly, because it may cause a small bubbling effect.

At Home Depot, the paint department has almost everything you need for this, and I imagine other stores are like this as well, unless they keep it in a flooring department.

flooring refinishing Videos

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